A few wristwatches transcended timekeeping to become design legends — worn on the moon, dived to the ocean floor, and chased on years-long waiting lists. Here are the watches that shaped modern watchmaking and still define the collector’s wishlist.
Rolex Submariner
Launched in the early 1950s, the Submariner set the template for the modern dive watch: rotating bezel, luminous markers, robust water resistance. It’s arguably the most recognizable luxury watch in the world and a benchmark every diver is measured against.
Omega Speedmaster ("Moonwatch")
The Speedmaster earned immortality as the watch worn during NASA’s Apollo missions — the first watch on the Moon. Still hand-wound in its classic form, it’s a chronograph with genuine space-flight history on its wrist.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Designed by Gérald Genta and released in 1972, the Royal Oak shocked the industry: a luxury sports watch in steel, with an octagonal bezel and exposed screws, priced like gold. It created an entire category and remains fiercely sought after.
The same designer, Gérald Genta, drew both the Royal Oak and the Patek Nautilus — two watches that redefined what "luxury" could look like in steel.
Patek Philippe Nautilus
Patek’s Nautilus (1976), with its porthole-inspired case, became one of the most coveted watches of the modern era — its waiting lists and resale prices the stuff of legend. Patek’s "you never actually own it, you look after it for the next generation" ethos says it all.
Cartier Tank & Santos
Cartier proved icons aren’t only round or sporty. The Santos (1904) was among the first purpose-built wristwatches, and the rectangular Tank became a 20th-century style staple worn by everyone from artists to royalty.
What makes a watch iconic (and collectible)
The legends combine a landmark design, a real story (space, diving, a famous wearer), top-tier movements, and scarcity. For value, condition, originality (untouched dial and parts), and a complete "full set" of box and papers matter enormously.
- Definitive diver
- Rolex Submariner
- Space history
- Omega Speedmaster
- Luxury steel sports
- AP Royal Oak, Patek Nautilus
- Value drivers
- Condition, originality, full set
Want to identify and value a watch? Watch Scanner & Valuator recognizes the brand and model from a photo and estimates its market value — a quick first read before buying, selling, or insuring a timepiece.
The takeaway
The most iconic luxury watches earned their status through bold design and real history, and the best have become serious collectibles. Whether you’re admiring or buying, knowing the legends — and what drives their value — turns a watch from a purchase into an informed choice.
At a glance
| Watch | Introduced | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Cartier Santos | 1904 | One of the first purpose-built men’s wristwatches |
| Cartier Tank | 1917 | Defining rectangular design |
| Rolex Submariner | 1953–1954 | Template for the modern dive watch |
| Omega Speedmaster | 1957 | NASA-qualified; worn on the Moon in 1969 |
| Audemars Piguet Royal Oak | 1972 | Luxury steel sports watch, octagonal bezel |
| Patek Philippe Nautilus | 1976 | Porthole-inspired steel sports watch |
Frequently asked questions
Who designed the Royal Oak and Nautilus?
Gérald Genta designed both, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972) and the Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976).
Which watch went to the Moon?
The Omega Speedmaster Professional, qualified by NASA for crewed missions and worn by Buzz Aldrin on the lunar surface during Apollo 11 in 1969.
Why are some luxury watches hard to buy at retail?
Brands limit production of popular models, so demand exceeds supply and authorised dealers keep waiting lists.
Is the Rolex Submariner a good investment?
It has historically held value well, but prices move with the market. Buy it to wear, not as a guaranteed investment.
Sources and further reading
- Rolex Submariner — Wikipedia
- Omega Speedmaster — Wikipedia
- Royal Oak (watch) — Wikipedia
Links checked September 14, 2026.
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